3CM thick countertop granite generally does not need any additional preparation other than level and secured cabinets.
For 2CM thick tops that have a laminated edge, it is recommended that you apply ¾ inch plywood sub-counter to the top of your cabinets to support the granite.
Granite Install . . . 4 Tips For A Smooth Installation
1. Prepare Your Cabinets For Granite
This will add support above appliances such as dishwashers and compactors, support holes for sinks and cooktops and also help support small cantilevered ends and breakfast bars.
One advantage to plywood is that you can level the slabs much more easily without moving them once they are in place. In any event, if you are using frameless (European style) cabinets or framed cabinets that have upper retractable cutting boards, you will need to raise the granite ¾ inch to clear the double bull-nose which hangs down ¾ inch. Plywood is a cheap and easy way to do that.
Installing granite tile countertops requires something completely different than installing slab countertops. Tile counters are installed by laying individual granite tiles into place. This counter has none of the weight or breakage concerns of slab granite
2. Decide Where You Want Seams
4. Consider How Granite Will Line Up With Your Cooktop
3. Choose The Right Sink
Self rimming sinks are sinks that lay on top of the granite and typically have a rim that is one-half inch larger than the hole (cut-out) they fit into. Most newly purchased sinks either come with a paper template or describe the cut-out and give dimensions. In either case the template or dimensions must be transferred to the granite where the sink is to be placed.
Try to leave at least 3 inches of stone on front and back. Always double check your planned cut-out against the actual sink with a tape measure. Many manufacturers have more than one sink style on a template so make sure you have the right one. Before you do any cutting, support the entire length of the slab of countertop with 2x4’s so that its weight is evenly distributed. Make sure none of the blocks are under your cut-out. You can also lay the granite on 3/4 inch styrofoam on a table.
Cut the straight lines of your cut-out with a circular saw with a diamond blade. If you are dry-cutting make sure you use a segmented or good turbo-cut blade. Hold the front of the saw down and sink the saw into the granite. Next, cut an X into the middle of your cut-out and then cut another X like you are slicing a pizza.
Most kitchen sink templates have 4 inch radius corners. The corners are cut using a 4 inch grinder with a diamond blade. Cut at an angle at least half way through the granite. If you can’t cut on the line then make the hole smaller (you can always fix the hole later with the grinder). Next, just drop out the triangles, knocking gently. A circular template, usually found in bathrooms, would be cut out mostly with the grinder. The center cuts could still be done with a circular saw.
How to cut a hole for an undermount sink
You follow the procedure for a self-rimming sink except that you will make the cut-out one quarter inch smaller than what the template shows.
The edges will have to be straightened out and "cleaned out" with a 4 inch silicon-carbide grinding stone. The straight lines will have to be cut more carefully and slowly, preferably wet-cut and using a jig (2X4 clamped to the granite) to keep your saw straight.
A quality stone install is indicated by good granite countertop seams. First, you need a perfectly smooth cut on the edges of the pieces being joined. The pieces must also be leveled and shimmed so that the seam line is smooth and both sides are the same height.
Leave a little space in between the two tops (1/16 inch or less). Next, place strips of masking tape along both sides of the seam to protect the stone from getting seam material on areas where you don't want it.
Mix a small amount of 2-part polyester glue with coloring pigments until you get the desired color of the seam. Don't add the hardener to the glue until the coloring has been finished. Add hardener and then squeeze the material in the seam with a hard, thin plastic strip.
Smooth the material down the entire length of the seam to eliminate voids or high spots. Remove the tape and let it dry. After a few minutes, you can "slice" excess material off the seam with a razor blade. Buff the seam with "0000" steel wool.
See Granite Seams for a great example of how this should look. Also, here's how choosing the right granite sealer will impact your installation.
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Cooktops come in many different variations. They may look similar but each requires granite fabrication and installation to be slightly different. A mistake in planning and install will bug you for years when you notice it every day.
Decide up front with your fabricator where you want stone and where you don't. Keep in mind, stone strips near cooktops are often the thinnest and weakest pieces in your kitchen.
Follow the same instructions as for a self rimming sink. You will normally find that the template for a cooktop has 90 degree corners, making it easier. It's critical to support the top with absolutely no deflection or you will risk cracking the stone top.
The edges can be polished by hand using a polishing kit made up of velcro-lined Diamond-embedded pads of 7 different "grits". The sink is mounted underneath after applying silicone to the mounting rim and is held up with wood or metal supports screwed into the upper front and back of the base cabinet.
Blocks can be glued to the bottom of the granite counter to support the sink away from the sides.
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